Isabel Marant, Spring Summer 2023
With the backing of It-girls Sienna Miller, Ulla Johnson, and the Olsen twins, the ephemeral romanticism of boho fashion is never far from spring collections. The laidback styles preferred by Jil Sander, Isabel Marant, and Chloé were a welcome change from the heavy winter coats and structured tailoring that have dominated our wardrobes of late, with open weaves, folksy prints, and crochet embellishments coming to the fore.
Bottega Veneta, Spring Summer 2023
Channelling the spirit of 90s teen angst but with added glamour, this season witnessed a revival of Kurt Cobain-esque knits at Marni, string vests at Raf Simons, and not forgetting the iconic distressing refined by Maison Margiela. For this season’s polished grunge, look for clean-cut, sculpted pieces like Gucci’s biker jacket from the 00s that inject edge through detailing.
Etro, Spring Summer 2023.
Whether distressed, printed, or studded, jeans have undergone a dramatic Y2K makeover for spring. At Givenchy, denim was given a thorough sandblasting while Chloé's Gabriela Hearst focused on noughties-inspired decoration, from silver studs to oversized eyelets. As skinny jeans take a temporary hiatus, wider leg iterations walked the catwalks of Jacquemus, Etro, and Khaite, but it was Diesel that went a step further with floor-sweeping proportions.
Burberry, Autumn Winter 2021
The nonchalance of minimalism brings little succour to today’s onerous climate, which is why frou-frou embellishments were all the rage. Sequins, lace, and signature chainmail were captivating at Paco Rabanne, likewise at Valentino and Alexander McQeen who threw in colourful feathers for good measure. For glitter lovers, renting or buying preloved is a far greener way to enjoy this trend. Or, archival pieces like this Self-Portrait number from our Relove edit have all the glamour without the environmental drawbacks.
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